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Sunday, February 28, 2010

How to sew a zipper

There are four different basic zipper applications. They are centered, lapped, fly front, and separating. A pattern will give you instruction on which method is right for your garment. Follow these steps to simplify sewing zippers.

Step one: Check the back of your pattern envelope for the necessary length and types of zipper.

Step two: Preshrink the zipper if it is less then 100% polyester.

Step three: Press zipper on wrong side of tape. Don't iron on coils.

How to install the zipper.

As you follow your pattern instructions keep these tips in mind. Always use a zipper foot when machine basting and when permanently stitching the zipper. Position it either to the right or left of your needle.This makes it ease to install the zipper and helps keep the stitches straight. Avoid ripples on your finished product by always stitching in the same direction,  from the bottom of the zipper to the top.

Machine basting is usually used when holding zippers in place before sewing , but you may also use tape or a glue stick. Put basting tape along the out side edge of the zipper tape so that you don't stitch through it. If you are useing stick glue allow it to dry so that you will not gum your needle. You may also use masking tape or transparent tape. Place the tape along the edges so that you do not stitch through it.

Keep the pull tab flipped up. This will make it ease to sew around the slider. A perfessional looking zipper is smooth with straight stitches. It is sometime hard to achieve this with the eye.You may want to try any of the following methods.
  • Use a ruler and a fabric marker to draw a stitching line on the right side of the fabric .
  • Use top stitching or stick on sewing tape. Stitch next to the tape. Pull it off when you are done.
  • If you are sewing a lapped zipper ,1/2'' wide transparent tape will make a good top stitching guide.
In order to avoid uneven stitches around the tab and slider, lift up the presser foot with needle in the fabric. Slide the slider back beyond the presser foot, lower the foot and continue to sew to the end of the seam.

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