learn how to sew a collar

A collar is made of three layers. A top layer,the interfacing, and the under layer or faceing.There is also another kind of collar called a one piece collar. Where the fabric is simply folded for each section.There are many different terms that describe collars but they basicly fall into three categeries. The flat collar, rolled collar, and the standing collar. No matter what style you chooes , the techniques for profesional results are all the same.

To begin, on all collars except the one piece collar, first apply interfacing to the under collar. Trim 1/2'' off the interfacing seam allowance to reduce bulk. If you are using  sew-in interfacing, trim seam allowance after the interfacing is machine basted in place. For fusible, trim the interfacing first, then fuse to the collar piece.

Stitching the collar

You will obtain a more even collar if you stitch it togrther in two steps instead of one.

Step 1 : Begin at center back and stitch to one edge of collar .
Step 2:  Begin at the center back  again , backstitching, then sewing to the other edge of  the collar.

Next trim and grade the seam allowance, that is to cut the seams narrow and by cutting the under collar a little shoter then the uper collar. Remember to notch your curved collars. That is to clip (v) shaped clips around the curved area.

Before turning the collar to the right side, press the seam allowance open over a point presser or press the under collar towards the collar. Then turn collar to the right side and undrestitch the under collar. This will prevent it from rolling to the right side.

Begain understitching by slipping the collar under the presser foot.with right side facing you. Stitch on the under collar next to the seamline, catching all seaming allowance. Note: If your collar is pointed then just stitch as you are able to go. But if your collar is round then stitch the entire length.

The final step before attatching your collar is preparing the garment.

1. Always staystitch the garments neckline edges .It keeps it from stretching.
2. Clip the neckline seam allowance at regular intervals. Just to but not through the staystitching.

I hope this information is helpful. PLease leave any commenst or questions on  the blog.

Thanks,

Fatimah

P.S. My e-book about how to make a self-faced collar is still available you can get it here:

http://www.faysoriginalsewing.com/laqw.html